
I
need some help on getting rid of snare drum buzz.
Here's
a popular problem!
The
snares buzz when a tom is struck because the tom's pitch is related to
the snare's pitch: it's either the same or off by an interval that creates
a harmonic (guitar players know all about harmonics: ask one to explain
it to you). There are many methods of ridding this annoying problem; some
work better than others.
You
could try re-tuning your toms or snare so there are no sympathetic vibrations
that set the snares off. This is not a good option because it usually wrecks
your tuning scheme.
Some
folks recommend de-tuning the four lugs on either side of the snares on
the bottom head of the snare drum. This is better that the re-tuning option,
but the effect is minimal, and you usually have to crank up the rest of
the lugs to get the pitch back.
Some
folks like to take a shoelace and thread it between the snares across the
width of the snares. This works, but will tend to muffle the snares when
you strike the snare drum. You have to decide if this is a valid trade-off
for you.
The
best method I've found is to put a small piece of tissue (kleenex) between
the snares and the bottom head close to the side of the head (not in the
middle). Usually about four plies will work. Like the shoelace method,
there is a trade-off in muting the snares, but it's not as extreme.
I
tend to find muting the snares helpful in a recording situation, but rather
unnecessary in a live band situation: everything's pretty loud anyway,
and a small buzz in the snares will usually get lost in the ambient noise.
- David Spener
suggests:
Use
a baseball card between the snares and the bottom head, taped to the head;
it doesn't kill the snare sound as much as Kleenex, and it does a good
job of deadening the buzz.
- Carlos Consuegra
writes:
This
worked for me: I have CS dot on top with a remo muf'l ring, and an ambassador
on bottom, the top head is really tight, and the bottom is tight also but
not as tight as the one on top. I think that the trick in this is found
in how you tighten the ends of the snare. Too loose and you will get lots
of buzz, and too tight will get you poor snare sound, try getting it tight,
not much though, and you'll have a nice sound out of the snare without
any buzz. try it it worked for me.
- Joe Grant writes:
I find a really good way to get rid of the buzz on my snare drum is to
use duct tape... yah, duct tape. This method does not dampen the sharp
sound of the snare but does eliminate "snare buzz" as I call
it. I have a combination Ambassador/Emperor snare. To eliminate "snare
buzz" I cut off about a two inch piece of duct tape, role it so it
forms a tube and place it on the back or front of my snare drum (usually
one on each side). The tape absorbs head vibrations so you get to hear
the beautiful clear snap of a snare drum without any background noise,
and it eliminates conflicting noise from the toms that vibrate the snare.
Professional
drummers (Like the guys on tv) tune their drums. I don't know how but they
get a very cool sound, and when I saw their drum heads, I saw that they
don't pitch too strong their head drums, but when I pitch too weak my head
drums, they just get dented with the time... What kind of heads do these
guys use? They are clear, and what I have saw, they are Remo.
Could
you tell me how they do that?
There
are a number of factors working here: tuning, muffling, microphone placement
and attenuation, equalization, gating, and probably a few digital and/or
electronic effects thrown in for good measure (like reverb). Anytime you
hear drums either on a recording or on a TV show, chances are good you're
not hearing the sound coming off the heads, but a processed sound. This
is a very complicated science and I don't have the space to go into it
here. Suffice it to say, to expect a raw sound to come anywhere close to
the sound you're hearing is rather impractical and can be quite discouraging.
You
can come close with proper tuning and muffling: tune them low (but not
loose) and either tape some kleenex on the top for muffling or put a plastic
ring on the head. This will kill the overring and give you the "bottom"
of the sound: the lower frequencies.
The
fact that you're denting you heads means you're hitting them too hard at
an angle that is too high. Try hitting closer to the rims as you hit the
drum head; work the angle down so you're not damaging the heads. I've been
playing loud music for years and I have yet to dent a head.
- Jeff Woods writes:
Thanks
for the great website! I've been playing for about a year, mostly blues
and some soul. There was some discussion about how to get a "cool
sound" out of drums. I moved into a new (actually 50 years old) house
with a vaulted cieling where I play. It's not a great listening room like
my old house had, but when I record in it you get free reverb just like
on Magic Sam's albums. But I didn't notice it until I played it back on
a tape. Well, thanks again for all the tips. That drum tuning section actually
made it easier to play!
- Marcus B- writes:
Hi
Tomas, excellent webpage. I use the same tuning technique: bottom heads
slightly tighter than batter. Here's another great special effect I got
from Mark Schulman (drummer for Cher, Foreigner, Simple Minds and Billy
Idol): place an extremely heavy item, such as a sandbag in your bassdrum,
not touching the heads. I have no logical or physical explanation for that,
but IT WORKS, it adds "something extra, that's rather felt than heard".
It works great for recording. Give it a try!!
How
often should I tune the bottom heads on my drums? Do they go out of tune
a lot?
Bottom
heads will usually stay in tune longer than the top heads because you're
not hitting them! They will go out, usually due to moisture and temperature
shifts (and the inevitable aging of the head). If you check them once a
month or so you should be fine.
Does
the bottom head serve as muffling in any way? What is the function of the
bottom head?
The
bottom head on toms can serve a muffing function, but this usually involves
adding some form of muffing device to it.
It's
primary purpose is to compliment the top head and help develop the sound
of the drum. Consider, even though you only strike the top head, both heads
vibrate - both heads contribute to the sound. How you tune these two drums
will affect how the drum will sound. Hop on over to Tuning
for an extensive discussion of the role of the bottom head in the sound.
The
bottom head also helps keep the sound in the drum shell longer than a single-headed
drum, thus helping the sound to "mature" and develop before it
is projected. This might sound rather goofy, but if you take the bottom
head off, hit the drum, then put it back on, you can get a feel of how
the bottom head helps round out the sound.
Is
it possible to over-muffle my drums?
It
depends on why you're muffling. If you're muffling to get rid of a nasty
over-ring, then you should do as much as you can to eliminate it. If in
the process, however, you wind up eliminating ALL the drums resonant tone,
then you've gone too far. If the drum just makes a quick, slappy "thud",
rather than speaks with a nice, pure tone, then you've killed it.
In
my experience I see an abundance of drummers who tend to overmuffle their
drums, especially the bass drum. What I find when playing un-miced is that
although the drums may have a lot of overtones when played alone these
overtones virtually dissappear when playing with the rest of the band.
I've
heard drummers with the bass drum muffled and the bass is almost non- existant.
The drummer however can hear it and thinks everyone else can. This also
applies to the other drums but is most evident with the bass drum. I've
mentioned this to drummers who I know well enough that they welcome advice
but they just can't bring themselves to change their habits. Of course
miking the drums is a different story.
- Shane
Camilleri or Toronto, Canada writes:
You
may laugh at my suggestions, but give it a try. For a standard 22 "kick,
I have used with very good results on almost any brand of drum, a Remo
pinstripe head ,a Remo bass drum muffle ring, a Danmar hard fibre kick
pad, black spray paint, a piece of carpet, and (I'm not kidding) a box
of thick cheap sanitary napkins. Paint the napkins black and line the bottom
2\3 of the bass drum leaving the top of the shell open to breathe a bit.
Install the muffle ring and head as normal. Place the kick pad where you
want it. Use the carpet to cover the napkins. If you use a hard beater
with a vented front head, this combo gives you a real kick a@# sound that
will cut through anything. Try it,you will not be dissapointed.
Can
you give me some tips on drum heads?
- Eric Fessler
writes:
First
off my kit is a Silver Export., not the most expensive thing out there
but hey I'm poor lol, it still sounds great thought... anyway; After searching
through endless drum heads for my Toms and Snare both I have found what
I have been looking for.. (atleast for now anyway) For my Toms I ended
up with good ol' Aquarian Performance II's.. They are made to be tuned
low but still have great bounce and they last along time.. I use no muffle
devices on the batter heads. The Resonator sides are Remos and I use a
slim piece of door weather-strip on the inside of the drum touching the
shell. (How much to use is guaged on how much you want to kill the ring)
The snare I picked an Aquarian Studio-X (coated) and a the thinest Remo
resonant side head I could find.. No other muffling required on the snare.
It has great depth and a great crack to it.. I love it! And finally the
kick, I use all Aquarian here. A Super Kick II on the beater side and a
regulator with port on the resonate side.. Again no further muffling required..
This combo give a great Sharp, quick punch with zero ring.. If you like
some ring or more of a boomy sound, the loose the regulator head and opt
of a Remo resonate head. This is the happiest I've ever been with the way
my kit sounds, I'm glad I got out and talk to other drumers that help a
bunch, and of coarse this site has helped me greatly... Have fun all.



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